Cocaïnomane 7B/7A+ Rocher du Potala #Bleau

Cocaïnomane 7B/7A+ Rocher du Potala #Bleau

climbing prn
climbing prn
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Publiée le le 10 novembre 2017

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Bouldering in fontainebleau, this one come with a long story.. so I will try to make it short! Opening a boulder always start with an idea, which is setted as a seed into your brain, and since that point, a mix between imaginary moves and crucial points extrated from your memory start the process. And one day, you were just passing by and a strange feelings appear: it's like, today is the day, you will try it.
The seed went in my brain in February, actually this seed was inserted into my brain by Jean Pierre Roudneff (the Bleau.info administrator and awesome bleausard).
In february this year I sent him a first version of cocaïnomane (http://y2u.be/0y6LhEhtcIY) , I was saying that the reta from cocaïne (http://y2u.be/MRFneNRb78w) is coming too fast in cocaine and it's a good training to add some more moves.
He answered me something like : "Ending with moves in IVth grade isn't really relevant. An interesting way to end this would be doing a more homogeneous version".
And yet the seed, was in place and I started dreaming about the new line. rocks details appears clearly to my mind.. and various technics to make it possible starts to came as a revelation.
I'm not really good at crimping stuff, always afraid to break something into my fingers.. But crimping is what we clearly have to do, to send this boulder.

Well start as cocainomane sans convention, so as cocaïne, then instead of manteling directly above the start of cocaïne, use the crimps just under the roof to reach the big hold from
"la poussière qui tue" and then finish as in this one.

I think I will go back to make a better looking video, this one seems kind of sketchy, but I was a bit tired. This line even if short is hard, or was hard for me.
anyway if you enjoyed it let me know, and if you have any question just ask!

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More info:
Cocaïne:
https://bleau.info/mee/24356.html
Cocaïnomane sans convention:
https://bleau.info/mee/301484.html
Cocaïnomane (true version, current version we were talking about):
https://bleau.info/mee/302348.html

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About the forest and sharing some ethics:
https://respectonsbleau.wordpress.com/appeal-english/

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To remember:
The sandstone is fragile.
To preserve the area use chalk with caution and brush it off afterwards.
Chalk should only be used on hands, never directly on the rock!
Clean your climbing shoes on a doormat before any climb.
This is essential to limit rock erosion.
https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/france/fontainebleau/area/14018635

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